The View From Behind
I stopped by the discussion for Jay Calderin's new book, Form, Fit & Fashion, on Friday night at his homebase, SFD. Because I'm always so well prepared and an excellent photographer, I grabbed a seat directly behind Jay and was able to take this incredible picture of his back and moderator Chris Muther (from the Boston Globe). I'm totally going to win some sort of photo prize for this one.
The conversation was light and full of laughter. Jay discussed his background, how he didn't want to be "the chacha designer" and decided against making red dresses at a very early age (it's because he's Latin), his influences (Vionnet!) and how architecture and construction are the most interesting and important elements of design for him. While Jay thought it was a joke when his editor called him to write the book, he realized he was being offered cart blanche and was able to put together a book that would "stir the imagination" of young designers. His book covers beyond design and touches upon the business side of fashion as well.
What I found most interesting was Jay's insight about Boston as a fashion city - which can be a very loaded topic. Jay had moved here in 1989, deciding he was sick of NYC, and founded Boston Fashion Week in 1996. He feels that Boston can be "the thinking man's fashion city" since, you know, we are the intellectual hub of America. Jay believes that Boston as a whole needs to figure out what it wants to celebrate about it's fashion. His thoughts are to move forward and merge with the brilliant technologies that are coming out of the area. He suggests that local designers think more about alternative presentations, a la London, utilizing technology as well as collaborating with other design-oriented industries to create more memorable and long-standing presentations.
His best point of the evening (albeit unrelated to the book): runway shows can be wasteful. While he agrees that there's nothing like a good show, putting on a quality production costs a lot of money. Since we are so bombarded with imagery from high-cost shows from around the world, it's easier to criticize a local designer more because of poor lighting or bad seating than for their actual designs. Not that runway shows are going away in Boston - however, Jay would love to see more video and photo exhibitions coming from Boston designers for this year's BFW.