Picking The Brain Of Sam Mendoza

I would consider fashion designer Sam Mendoza more of a wunderkind couturier than fashion designer. Sam is a one-man show, more or less. His pieces are handmade and one-of-a-kind. With the support of his boss of 4+ years, Stil owner Betty Riaz, Sam has been able to grow his private client list while offering up samples of his work in-store. Most importantly, Sam plays by his own rules. He doesn't concern himself with trends and allows himself to absorb the world around him, which is evident in his work.

With the opening of the new Stil, Sam has set up a small workspace in the corner of the store (right across the room from that sweet coffee machine - yes, I'm obsessed), allowing him to work on evening gowns and dresses for clients during downtime. Visit him, and he'll direct you over to a seat and immediately pull out some astrology books. He'll recommend you look at the birthday book while he checks your compatibility with your love and even with him (so he knows what to expect out of working with you). Planets and stars aside, what I really wanted to know is what's going on in that head of his. After the jump, see what's on Sam's mind for his upcoming collection...

While Sam's last presentation at Boston Fashion Week was inspired by a trip to India (some pieces from the collection can be seen here, above), he is currently working on a short conceptual film with his roommates. He's creating two original looks for the film in which he is channeling his inspiration in to. 

Over the holiday, he returned to his hometown of Houston, Texas where he promptly watched "Party Girl" starring Parker Posey with his younger brother, repeatedly. To say he's got Parker on his mind is a bit of an understatement (more on that on another day!). He's attracted to the body consciousness of the early 90's. Also a huge influence at the moment for Sam is China. Very "chinoisie", is what he's feeling, so much so that he's hoping to redecorate his apartment in a similar theme.

Color and fabric play a huge role in Sam's designs. The pallet he's dreaming of at the moment is red/peach/pink/gold/black (in exactly that order) and variations of white. This helps him narrow down his search for beautiful yet durable fabrics. "A dress with sequins is going to lose those sequins as soon as you sit in a cab. The person who designed that dress has never worn sequins in a cab - that's why I avoid fabrics like this that are too delicate. They may be beautiful but my client wants something that will last," Sam waxed as we discussed his preferences for chiffon and silk. He's one for the hunt, digging through fabric stores across the country. His heart remains in Houston though, where his favorite fabric store is, allowing him to search for older fabrics, which he says he gravitates to.

As far as shape goes, a classic Mendoza dress has a silhouette as seen above. Sam begins a dress at the shoulder and finds himself returning to an asymmetrical look regularly. When working with clients, Sam interprets their vision for them since he prides himself to be customer-driven. Left to his own whims, Sam will create beautiful flowy off-the-shoulder looks with a bit of a spin for each dress.

Mendoza dresses range from $400 to $800 and are worth every dollar for all the love and hard work that Sam puts into each piece. Stop by Stil at The Pru to visit with Sam, see some of his work, talk shop (and some astrology!) and have him take your measurements. For those of you who'd put out just as much for a dress or gown off the rack, consider having Sam create an original piece made specifically for your body. I absolutely hate how easily the word couture is thrown around these days, but a dress by Sam Mendoza is the truest example of the word you can find in Boston.